desfile de boyeros

I had been aware of the Expo Sucre - Feria de Leche for about three weeks before I went - it was advertised around town and on the neighboring highways on the only banners displaying events that hadn't already passed. (The signs will probably stay up for the next six months....). No one I talked to seemed to be all that excited about it, but I figured that since I had nothing else to do, and was going to miss the BIG agricultural expo (I'm thinking it is kind of like a state fair, but they boast that its and international event....), that I might as well check it out.

I knew that Sucre was somewhere outside of Ciudad Quesada, got a taxi quote, and headed out for the last day of about two weeks worth of events. Advertized on the horario online and on posters in town, was the 10:00 Desfile de Boyeros - which I learned was basically an oxcart parade.

I was looking forward to seeing the oxcarts because they are a pretty famous part of Costa Rican history and culture and used to be the main way of transporting goods throughout the country. I figured that I'd get there a little before 10:00, watch the parade, see what else the "feria" had to offer, and head back home.

That day, Sunday, was the hottest that it had been in about a month and even the cab driver was complaining about the heat. He seemed surprised at my destination, but complied, answering my questions along the way before finally pulling off the road in the middle of nowhere into a near empty field. I paid the man, got up out of my pool of sweat, within seconds of the cab pulling away, began to wonder how the hell I was going to get home. No bus stops, no telephone, no stores. Awesome. Regardless, I figured that I would have plenty of time to worry about that later, and set off to check things out.

There were probably about 20-30 Jersey and Holstein cows in a low slung building standing underneath ribbons and signs displaying their lineage. The only people around were caring for the cows and I only saw three oxcarts and pairs of oxen, none of which were preparing to hitch up. In true Costa Rican fashion, the desfile was not going to start on time.

I sat in the barn for about an hour taking pictures of the cows and the Volcano as it was an unusually clear day.

I got a lot of curious looks, but was only approached by a group of kids that asked me which cows were mine.... I mean, why else would I be there? I went down the the food area (a stand selling churros and peanuts, one selling cotton candy and chips, and a large building with a kitchen) and decided to try sopa de mondongo - tripe soup as it was one of the only options. Not as gross as I expected, but certainly nothing I'd seek out again. The texture was kind of gross.....

I had just asked the waitress for suggestions on how to get back to Quesada when I heard rumbling.

Finally, two hours late, the oxcarts were moving. I paid and rushed to see them in all of their painted glory. The oxen were truly magnificent and powerful looking and didn't even seem to notice the carts loaded with children behind them. The looped the fairgrounds about 4 times before heading into the rodeo arena for judging. I ended up standing next to the owner of one of the teams and he kind of adopted me into his posse of extended family, giving me a beer and insisting that I sit with them.

I got my picture taken with the team and and learned a lot about the carts and animals. Apparently the oxen are way smarter than cows, at least as smart as horses, but it still takes nearly four years to perfectly train a team. Everything they did was all by voice command and motions with the driving stick. The driver, or boyero, never had to touch them.

As soon as the judging was finished, the other two teams left, but "mine" was unhitched and tied to the fence to relax while the festivities began. Someone drove an SUV into the ring blaring music and a huge picnic came out, right there in the arena. It was pretty fun, and I'm pretty sure I could have gotten a ride home from them, but didn't really want to stay around for as long as they appeared to be planning on. I walked about 2 miles before finding a bus stop and had been starting to wonder if I'd need to walk to whole 10k.... Overall, I'm glad that I went and experienced something new and random, but it was hardly what I'd been expecting.